Ndeupi Musiyano Wechokwadi Pakati PeSirika Yakachipa uye Inodhura?

Wakavhiringika nemutengo wakakura wezvigadzirwa zvesilika? Gwaro iri rinokudzidzisa maitiro ekuona sirika yemhando yepamusoro, saka unogona kunzwa uine chivimbo mukutenga kwako kunotevera.Sirika yemhando yepamusoro[^1] inotsanangurwa nekunzwa kwayo, kupenya, uye uremu. Sirika inodhura inonzwa yakapfava zvisingaite uye yakatsetseka, ine pearly sheen yakapfava, uye inorema nekuda kwekukwirira.Mhamha verengai[^2]. Sirika dzakachipa kazhinji dzinonzwa kushoma, dzine sepurasitiki-kupenya, uye dzakatetepa.

Zvinogona kuita sezvakaoma, asi kutaurira silika yakanaka kubva kune yakaipa kuri nyore kana iwe waziva zvekutarisa. Semunhu akashanda nesilika kweanoda kusvika makore makumi maviri, ndinogona kukuratidza matipi akareruka ekutenga kwakanaka. Ngatiburitsei zvinhu zvakakosha kuti ugone kutenga uine chivimbo uye uwane iyo yemhando yepamusoro yaunokodzera.

Ungaziva sei kana sirika yemhando yepamusoro?

Iwe unomira muchitoro kana kutarisa pamhepo, asi sirika yese inotaridzika zvakafanana. Unoziva sei chakanaka kubva kune chakaipa? Unoda bvunzo dzakareruka kuti utarise kunaka.Iwe unogona kuona sirika yemhando yepamusoro nezvinhu zvitatu zvikuru: kubata kwayo, kupenya kwayo, uye uremu hwayo (Amai). Sirika yemhando yechokwadi inonzwa yakapfava uye inotonhorera, ine kupenya kwakafanana neparera kunochinja muchiedza, uye inonzwa yakakura, kwete kutetepa. Inodzivisawo kuunyana kana iwe uchiiunganidza.Muhupenyu hwangu hwese paWonderful Silk, ndakabatsira vasingaverengeki vatengi kunzwisisa misiyano iyi. Vazhinji vanoshamisika pavanotanga kunzwa yedu 22 Amai sirika mushure mekushandiswa kune zvakachipa dzimwe nzira. Musiyano hausi kungoonekwa chete; chinhu chaunogona kunzwa zvechokwadi. Kuti ikubatsire kuva nyanzvi, ngatitarise bvunzo idzi zvakanyanya.

TheBata Test[^3]

Iyi ndiyo nzira iri nyore yekutonga sirika.Sirika yemhando yepamusoro[^1] ine manzwiro akasiyana. Inofanira kunge yakapfava zvisingaite uye yakatsetseka, ine inotonhorera kubata paganda rako. Paunoimhanyisa nemaoko ako, inoyerera semvura. Iyo inewo zvishoma elasticity; kana ukaidhonza zvinyoro nyoro, ngaive nepe shoma yozodzokera pachimiro chayo. Sirika yemhando yakaderera kana polyester satin, kune rumwe rutivi, inogona kunzwa kuoma, waxy, kana kutsvedza zvakanyanya nenzira yekugadzira. Muedzo mukuru wepamba-bvunzo ndeye wrinkle bvunzo. Bata kona yesiriki woikwesha muruoko rwako kwemasekonzi mashoma.Sirika yemhando yepamusoro[^1] ichave nekuunyana kushoma, ukuwo sirika yakachipa ichibata matinji zviri nyore.

TheLuster uye Weave Test[^4]

Zvadaro, tarisa kuti sirika inotaridza sei chiedza.Sirika yemhando yepamusoro[^1], kunyanyaMulberry silk[^5], ine kupenya kwakanaka, kwakaoma, kwete kupenya kuri nyore. Inofanira kutaridzika separera, ine kupenya kunyoro kunoratidzika kunge kunobva mukati memucheka. Sezvaunofambisa jira, chiedza chinofanira kutamba pamusoro pepamusoro, zvichiita nzvimbo dzechiedza nemumvuri. Izvi zvinodaro nekuti chimiro chetriangular cheshinda dzesirika chinodzosera chiedza pamakona akasiyana. Synthetic satins, zvakasiyana, ine sandara, chena, uye kupenya kwakanyanya kupenya kunotaridzika zvakafanana kubva kumakona ese. Uyewo, ongorora weave. Mucheka wesilika wakanaka uchange uine tambo yakasimba, inopindirana isina zvikanganiso zvinooneka kana snags.

Ndeupi unhu hwakanakisisa hwesilika?

Wakambonzwa mazwi akaita seMulberry, Charmeuse, naAmai, asi anorevei? Zvinovhiringa. Iwe unongoda kutenga sirika yakanakisisa, asi jargon inoita kuti zvive zvakaoma kuenzanisa.Sirika yepamusoro uye yepamusoro-soro pasi rose ndeye 100%Mulberry silk[^5] nepamusoroMhamha verengai[^2]. Akasimudzwa muutapwa pakudya kwakasimba kwemashizha emulberry, theBombyx mori[^6]Silkworm inogadzira shinda refu, yakasimba, uye yakafanana yakawanda, ichigadzira jira risingaenzaniswi, reumbozha.

Ini ndinogara ndichiudza vatengi vangu kuti kana vari kutsvaga iyo yakanyanya kunaka, mhinduro inogara iripoMulberry silk[^5]. Kutarisira uye kutonga kunoenda mukugadzirwa kwayo kunoguma nemwero wemhando iyo mamwe sirika asingakwanisi kuenderana. Asi kuti unzwisise zvizere kuti nei chiri chakanakisa, iwe zvakare unofanirwa kunzwisisa huremu hwayo, iyo yatinoyera muna Amai.

Chikonzero nei Mulberry Sirika Inotonga Pamusoro

The secret toMulberry silk[^5] hukuru huri mukugadzirwa kwayo. Silkworms, nesainzi inozivikanwa seBombyx mori[^6], vanorerwa munzvimbo inodzorwa. Vanodyiswa kudya kwemashizha emuti wemuhabhurosi. Kungwarira uku kunoita kuti shinda dzesirika dzavanoruka kuitira makokoni avo dzakarebesa, dzakachena, uye dzakafanana mukukora. Kana shinda refu idzi dzakarukwa kuita jira, dzinogadzira chinhu chakatsetseka zvisingaite, chakasimba, uye chinogara kwenguva refu. Kusiyana neizvi, “sirika dzomusango” dzinobva muhonye dzinodya mashizha akasiyana-siyana, zvichiita kuti pave netambo pfupi, dzisina kufanana dzinenge dzisina kupfava kana kuti dzinogara kwenguva refu. Ichi ndicho chikonzero iwe paunodyara mu100%Mulberry silk[^ 5], urikudyara mune yakadzama yemhando yesirika.

Basa raAmai muHunhu

Momme (mm) iyuniti yehuremu yechiJapan iyo yava chiyero chekuyera kusimba kwesirika. Zvifunge seshinda kuverenga donje. Nhamba yeMomme yakakwira inoreva kuti jira rinoshandisa sirika yakawanda paskweya mita, richiita kuti rireme, riwedzere, uye rirambe rakasimba. Nepo sirika yaAmai yakareruka yakanakira masikavha akapfava, yakakwiriraMhamha verengai[^2]s akakosha pazvinhu zvinoona kushandiswa zvakanyanya, semapillowcase nemabhoneti. Kune izvi zvigadzirwa, ini ndinowanzo kurudzira kutanga na19 Amai, asi 22 kana makumi maviri neshanu Amai vanopa chiitiko cheumbozha uye chichagara kwenguva yakareba nekutarisirwa kwakakodzera.

Ndeapi marudzi mana esirika?

Kupfuura Mulberry, unoona dzimwe mhando seTussah naEri. Chii chakasiyana? Izvi zvinowedzera imwe nyonganiso. Iwe unongoda kuziva kuti chii chekusarudza chigadzirwa chemhando.Kunyange zvazvo kune marudzi akawanda esirika, anowanzowira mumhando ina huru: Mulberry, Tussah, Eri, uye Muga. Mulberry ndiyo yakajairika uye yepamusoro mhando. Mamwe matatu acho anozivikanwa se“sirika dzomusango,” sezvo anogadzirwa nemakonye esirika asina kurimwa.

Kwemakore angu makumi maviri ndiri muindastiri yesirika, ndashanda nemachira akawanda, asi pfungwa dzangu dzagara dziri pakupa zvakanakisa kune vatengi vangu. Ndosaka paWonderful Silk, isu tinoshandisa cheteMulberry silk[^5]. Nepo masirika emusango aine runako rwawo, haakwanise kuenderana nekupfava, kusimba, uye kutsvedzerera kunotarisirwa nevatengi vedu kubva kuchigadzirwa cheumbozha. Ngatimboongororai muchidimbu marudzi mana makuru aya kuti muone kuti sei Mulberry iriyo sarudzo yakasarudzika yezvinhu zveprimiyamu.

Iye anotonga Champion: Mulberry Silk

Sezvatakakurukura,Mulberry silk[^5] ndiyo mwero wegoridhe. Inoverengera inosvika 90% yepasi rose sirika. Yakagadzirwa neBombyx mori[^6]gonye resirika, shinda dzayo dzakareba, dzakafanana, uye dzinongogara dzakachena. Izvi zvinobvumira kunyange kudhayiwa uye zvinoita kuti jira resiririka rakatsetseka, risingaperi rinowanikwa. Ndiyo chete sirika inogadzirwa nemakonye anorimwa, ndokusaka kunaka kwayo kusingachinji uye kuri nani. Paunotenga chigadzirwa senge pillowcase yesilika kana bhoneti yebvudzi, iyi ndiyo mhando yesilika yaunoda.

The Wild Silks

Dzimwe mhando nhatu dzinowanzounganidzwa pamwe chete se“sirika dzemusango” nekuti makonye haana kurimwa uye anogara munzvimbo yaanogara.

• Tussah Silk[^8]:Inogadzirwa nemhando dzakasiyana dzesilkworm dzinodya mashizha emuoki. Sirika iyi ine mapfupi, mafiibha akakora uye yakasikwa goridhe kana shava ruvara. Haina kupfava seMulberry silk[^5] uye yakanyanya kuoma kudhaya.
• Eri Silk[^9]:Iyo inozivikanwawo se "sirika yerunyararo" nekuti makonye esirika anobvumidzwa kubuda kubva mumakoko awo sirika isati yakohwewa. Mafiibha acho mapfupi uye ane makushe emvere kana donje-kufanana nekugadzirwa, zvichiita kuti isanyanya kutsvedzerera paneMulberry silk[^5].
• Muga Silk[^10]:Sirika yemusango iyi isingawanzowanikwi uye inodhura inogadzirwa nemakonye ekuAssam, India. Iyo inozivikanwa nekupenya kwayo kwegoridhe uye kusimba kwakanyanya, asi kuomarara kwayo kunoita kuti isakodzere zvinyoro zvinyoro senge pillowcases.
  

  Silk Type	Silkworm Diet	Fiber Hunhu	Main Use
  Mulberry	Mulberry mashizha	Yakareba, yakatsetseka, yakafanana, yakachena yakachena	Zvekurara zveumbozha[^7], zvipfeko
  Tussah	Oak & mamwe mashizha	Mupfupi, wakakora, wakasikwa goridhe ruvara	Micheka inorema, jaketi
  Eri	Castor anobva	Mupfupi, makushe, dense, kunze-chena	Shawls, magumbeze
  Muga	Som & Soalu vanobva	Yakakora, yakasimba kwazvo, goridhe rechisikigo	Traditional Indian zvipfeko

Mhedziso

Pakupedzisira, mutsauko pakati pesirika yakachipa uye inodhura unouya kune kwainobva, uremu, uye kunzwa. Yepamusoro-soroMulberry silk[^5] nepamusoroMhamha verengai[^2] inopa kupfava kusingaenzaniswi, kusimba, uye mutambarakede.

[^1]: Kunzwisisa hunhu hwesirika yemhando yepamusoro kunogona kukubatsira kuita sarudzo dzekutenga uine ruzivo. [^2]: Dzidza nezve Amai kuverenga kuti unzwisise kuti zvinokanganisa sei kunaka kwesirika uye kusimba. [^3]: Tenzi weTouch Test kuti uone zviri nyore silika yemhando yepamusoro paunenge uchitenga. [^4]: Ongorora bvunzo iyi kuti unzwisise kuti sirika inoratidza sei chiedza uye kunaka kwayo. [^5]: Ziva kuti sei Mulberry sirika iri mwero wegoridhe mumhando yesirika uye maitiro ayo akasiyana ekugadzira. [^6]: Dzidza nezveBombyx mori silkworm nebasa rayo mukugadzira sirika yepamusoro. [^7]: Tsvaga kuti sei sirika iri iyo sarudzo inosarudzika pamubhedha weumbozha uye nemabhenefiti ayo. [^8]: Dzidza nezve kugadzirwa kweTussah Sirika uye maitiro ayo akasiyana zvichienzaniswa nesirika yeMulberry. [^9]: Ziva zvakasarudzika zvivakwa zveEri Silk uye mashandisiro ayo mumachira. [^10]: Ongorora kushomeka uye maitiro eMuga Sirika, yakasarudzika mhando yesirika yemusango.